Jewelry manufacture



Feb. 17; 1 925.

L. C. HENRY JEWELRY MANUFACTURE Fil'ed' Nov. 8, 1923 INVENTOR Patented Feb. 17, 1925.

PATENT OFFICE.

LOUIS CLEMENT HENRY, 013 NEW YORK, N. Y.

JEWELRY MANUFACTURE.

Application flied November ToaZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, LOUIS CLEMENT .HENRY, citizen of the United States, and a resident of New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Jewelry Manufacture, of which the following is a specification.

My present invention relates to jointing means for parts of jewelry such asbracelets and the like; and to a method of applying a such joint or: articulation to the jewelry piece, and to the working of the jewelry in accordance therewith.

In the forms of joints in common use on fine pieces of jewelry considerable trouble is experienced from the breaking of the joints and their parts due to their design which results in the concentration of strains at single points.

Present known the minute size thereof prohibit the attention necessary to secure strengthdue to the enormous length of time which would be required. I The object of my invention is to provide a jointure of this kind which is strong, very small, and easy to apply to the joined parts.

Another object of my invention is to provide a method of applying jointures to' jewelry such as bracelets, ear-rings, and so on which will result in a considerable saving of time in the manufacture of such articles.

Another object of my invention is to provide a form in which the elements of the jointure of my invention are made in a continuous strip and from which the desired length of joint pieces can be cut, thereby providing a jointure element whose several parts are already aligned and which can be made very cheaply.

Another object of my invention is to provide a jointure which is strong, easy to make, and any number of which can be made uniform throughout the article jointed.

My inventionis fully described below in connection with the accompanying drawing in which:

Fig. 1 is an elevation'view of a bracelet blank showing a gallery, a facing, and jewels mounted in the facing.

Fig. 2 is an elevation view of the same of jewel block units.

designs of such joints and a 8, 1923. Serial No. 673,423.

blank through the gallery at the boundaries Fig. 3 is an enlarged view in elevation at such slot having one of the jointures of my invention mounted in said slot and be tween the gallery units.

Fig. 4 is an enlarged view in elevation at such slot and joint showing complete severance of the several bracelet units.

Fig. 5 shows in perspective a stock strip from which the elements of the jointure of my invention are cut.

Fig. 6 is an exploded view of the several elements of my jointure.

Fig. 7 shows in elevation and perspective the jointure of my invention with the parts assembled.

Fig. 8 shows in elevation and perspective a jointure element with one side or flange having a longitudinal bead.

Fig. 9 is an end view of an assembled jointure lshowing means for holding the jointure rigid when assembled and affixed to the article jointed and which means can be modified to suit the jointure conditions desired.

As shown in the drawing my jointure comprises three elements (see Fig. 6) two of which, 1 and 2, have flanges or wings 12 between which are the loops 11 which are substantially semi-circular in shape. Between these loops and alternating therewith are the slots 10. In the assembly of the joint the convex faces of parts 1 and 2 are turned toward each other and the loops of one insorted in the slots of the other. A headed pin, 3 is then inserted through the meshing loops up to its head (see Fig. 7) and its other end is soldered or fused to one of the other oint elements, either 1 or 2, or it may be headed or otherwise held in place. The

elements 1 and 2 are cut in the size needed from the stock strip, 8 see Fig. 5. The jointure as above described is now ready for insertion between the parts to be joined and will be aflixed thereto as hereinafter de scribed.

A bracelet blank, which is here used as an example (see Fig. 1), is prepared by fixing the facing 5 to the gallery, 6 and cuttin slots, 7 at such points as joints are desired in said gallery of a width to receive the jointure and of a corresponding depth. As shown this slot extends for a short distance into the facing The jointure is then inserted in said slot with its axis perpendicular to the length of the bracelet and fixed there by welding, brazing, or soldering.

All of the sections of the bracelet having been slotted and had joints fired thereto, the facing 5 is cut through from the top into the slots, '7 at each of the jointure points and as shown at points 9 to complete the separation of the several sections of the bracelet: except as they are held together by said jointures. This method allows rapid mounting either by machine or by hand of the jointures in the bracelet or other piece 01 jewelry and provides for the accurate aligning of the ointures even in very small work where the joint parts are very minute in size.

As shown in Figs. 3, 4, 6, 7, 8 and I manufacture when desired my jointure elements with the head, 13 along one of the flange l'llGll'lbQlS thereof. By atiixing the jointures to the bracelet parts with the beading, 13 at the inward or lower side ot the bracelet I am able to obtain an equal degree of movement or flexure at each joint by saw-cutting between the adjacent beads or nubs, l-3-13 to remove a portion of either or both of the beads or by completely removing said bead or beads to make the space between said head holding flange of an equal or desired width at each joint. I the same time make the saw-cutto suit the desired curvature of the bent or closed bracelet. in this manner I secure a bracelet of regular and of desired curvature throughout.

To secure a bracelet which will not bend or curve outwardly I make the heading on the j ointnre elements of such dimensions that when first assembled the jointure has no movement whatever, as is shown in 9, the headings, 1313 causing the flanges on the other side therefrom of the assembled joint to bear against each other. iVhen assembled in this position and a eutof the desired width is made between beads 13 43 and at 9 the bracelet can be bent inwardly but not out wardly.

Of course where the grade of work does not call for or warrant such close work I make the jointure element stock without the lr-eadiug, as shown in Fig. 5.

l claim:

1. A unitary stock strip of joint elements comprising a piece of metal having longitudinal flange elements between which are a row of loops extending substantially the length of said strips, one of said stripshaving greater maximum thickness than the other.

2. A unitary stock strip of jointure elements comprising longitudinal strips connected by a row, of loops, one of said strips having greater maximum thickness than the other.

A unitary stock strip of jointure elements comprising two longitudinal flanges connected by spaced apart loops, one of said flanges being of greater maximum thickness than the other.

4. A unitary stock strip of jointure elements comprising two longitudinal flanges, said flanges being connected by a row of spaced apart loops, and one of said flange members having a longitudinal bead on the same side thereof as said row of loops.

In an article of jewelry, flexible jointure means between parts thereof comprising two flanged elements, said elements having a row oi? loops connecting flange members, the loops of one member fitting between the loops of the other element, and a pin passing through the two intermeshing sets of loops and movement limiting means on said flanges.

6. For an article of jewelry flexible jointure means bet-ween parts thereof comprising two elements each having two flanges a row of spaced apart loops connecting said flanges, the loops of one element fitting into spaces between the loops of the other element. and a pin passing through the two sets of intermeshing loops and fixed to one of said elements, the flanges on one side O'l said pin carrying removable means -for preventing movement at said jointure means.

7. A jointure element for bracelet segments formed to prevent movement in one angular direction and havingv removable means for preventing angular movement in the opposite direction.

8. The method of making jointed bracelets and the like which comprises forming a bracelet blank of unitary segments by aflixing a bracelet facing to a gallery, slotting said gallery up to the facing in the plane of and at the point of jointure between the bracelet segments, aflixing a jointure means in said slot, and then finishing severing the bracelet segments.

9. The method of making jointed bracelets and the like which comprises slotting a bracelet blank transversely at the point or points of jointure, atfixing a jointure means in each of said slots having means for preventing movement thereof, removing said movement preventing means to a degree to allow movement to the degree desired.

10. The method of making jointed brace-- lets and the like which comprises slotting a blank at the point or points of jointure be tween segments, affixing a. jointure means .in each of such slots having means for preventing movementthereof, removing said movement preventing means to a degree to allow movement to the degree desired, and then finishing severing the blank segments.

11. The method of making jointed braceand V lli lets and the like having movement at their movement in the direction and to the degree joints in one direction from a given position which comprises slotting a blank transversely at the point or points of jointure between segments, afiixing a jointure means in each of such slots having means for prevent- 111g movement thereof, reniovlng said movement preventlng means to a degree to allow desired, and finishing severing the blank seg- 1 ments at said jointure points.

Signed at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, this day of October A. D. 1923.

LOUIS CLEMENT HENRY. 

